Category Archives: Technology

Tried to make a home cinema on budget in Sri Lanka

To make good home cinema you have to get better screen, nice sound, quality contents and other supportive appliance to run it. For the first step I was trying to get possible highest quality screen with low budget. Projects like this would be highly depended on where you live, budget, availability and so on. So this might not the way someone else should do, but anyway, this is how I did it.

First of all I had to decide what kind of screen type is suitable for my project. I had 2 main choices which are a Projector and LED/LCD display. In that case I decide to go for LCD/LED display for obvious reasons. First one is, personally I don’t like projectors, because its exaggerated and unreal color production, minimal contrast ratio, lack of producing deep black and so on. Obliviously high end of device with controlled environment will reduce those problems, but as sound it is not going to be cheap or easy for me.

As the second step I decide how much screen size it would be and screen resolution I might need. As I planned I’m going to watch this with a range of 2 to 10 feet away from the screen. So because of that I decide to go for range 27” to max size I could get hands on. Mostly 32 inches as I thought.

For the resolution it has been decided to go to Full HD. The reason behind that is I do have lots of content on 1080p quality. So I might not be able to get maximum output quality as I desired if I use anything less than that for screen resolution. To go better 2K, UHD, 4K or some other fancy word, screen types would work, but since the budget is my main factor here, so I didn’t consider any of that.

After deciding resolution and size, once again, I had 2 options. Frist one is buying a monitor, second one is buying a TV. However, finding Full HD monitor was easy, but finding screen size at least 27 inches wasn’t. All the monitors on 27 inch size screen is more expensive than I expected. After market research I could find possible and suitable options from different brands as follows.

Asus 27″ VX__ Price ~40,000 LKR

Dell 27″ SE2717H Price ~30,000 LKR

AOC 27″ I2769Vm Price ~30,000 LKR

HP 27ES 27″ Price ~38,000 LKR

Although lower budget option was 30K LKR, I found TV’s on the market for that price in size of larger than 32 inches. But the problem is those are not having a resolution size I expected. The reason behind it is TV’s are designed to watch far away from the screen, so pixel size is pretty much larger to comparing PC monitors which are designed to watch much closer. So in the nature, monitors have smaller individual pixel sizes. Otherwise, larger PPI value (pixels per inch).  In the mobile phone market this PPI value is clearly staying in specification on almost any device and its one of main factors decide the screen quality on the device but not on the TV’s and monitors. And I’m not sure why.



However, there was some TV’s I could find on the market for the lowest price with Full HD resolution as I demand. But the problem was, a lot of those are scams. For example, here SGL32MG353 – 32″ LED TV that clams its full HD, but that is their marketing crap to sell their product. That model, however Chinese made TV re branded by Singhagiri limited. As it’s website demand that panel is a Full HD panel with 1920×1080 resolution. Also, some online market places like selling the same product with the same information, but with extra steps.With some information about UHD crap. So I contact them and asked for more information, but they couldn’t provide any useful information. So I visit some of stores to see the exact product by myself and then find out that TV doesn’t contain Full HD panel. It’s Just HD panel and also all the TV’s below 40 inches are just coming up with an HD or HD ready panels. Then I visit another store and find the exact same story. Every TV on the market that have a true Full HD resolution at least in size of 40 inches or larger. Which means there are no TVs out there, that’s suitable for my purpose.

At this point I could go for some of HD TV, but that will not be good as monitor on similar price range. For example, let’s calculate Dell 27″ SE2717H and SGL32MG353 – 32″ LED TV, PPI values and compare them

Dell 27″ SE2717H

Screen dimensions

Diagonal screen size 27in

Screen resolution

Vertical pixels 1,080

Horizontal pixels 1920

Total pixels 2.074Mpx

Pixels per inch PPI 81.59

SGL32MG353 – 32

Screen dimensions

Diagonal screen size 32in

Screen resolution

Vertical pixels 1,280

Horizontal pixels 720

Total pixels 0.922Mpx

Pixels per inch PPI 45.89

You can see the huge difference between them. The pixel size of the TV almost double sized as a monitor. These larger pixel sizes will make a huge difference when you work in closer to screen.

In meanwhile I got found some other option for the solution, which is Korean made second hand monitors that contain Full HD panel and larger size. And with some nice viewing angles and stuff. Prices are also cheaper than both above options. But they are more likely at the end of their usable lifetime, so possibly we cannot expect longer life time without problems like brand new ones.

So I still haven’t made up my mind over any options. I guess I’ll wait more looking better options outer there. However, here I summarize the details I find out to get a clear idea about the pros and cons in using a monitor or TV in small scale home cinema.

 TVsMonitorsUsed and unbranded korian monitors
Considered Screen size32″27″32″
Resolution availableHD or HD ready
Full HD
Full HD
Price 20K LKR to 55K LKR30K LKR to 50K LKR15K LKR to 20K LKR
ProsAvailable at low price
Comes with TV function and some extra options
Larger screen size

Higher screen resolution
Good screen quality
Higher PPI value
Lower response time
Available at low price
Larger screen size
Higher screen resolution
Good screen quality
High PPI value
Lower response time
ConsLow screen quality
Low PPI value
Higher response time
Price is higherNo warranty for considerable time period
Possible shorter life time

DIY solar panel from cheap solar cells – Does cheap solar cells works from eBay

Solar energy is the coolest energy source in the world. But because of its cost of energy harvesting systems, it’s not very popular among a lot of people. However, while I was looking for some cheap option for a DIY solar system, I found some sellers on eBay, selling solar cells for considerably lower prices. So after careful consideration, I ordered 100 pieces of solar cells, which cost me a 8.38$ with free shipping. It was branded as AIYIMA 100pcs Solar Panel Solar Cells. However, it’s specification says one cell provide 0.5V 320mA of current with an efficiency of 17.4%. And with that specification I could have maximum of 16W (0.5Vx320mA) from all of the cells combined together. Which isn’t much, but since 0.5$ per a watt is really a cheaper option for me. I’ll add a link below the post to eBay seller if anyone needs to take a look.

In a few weeks I received it with a well protected package including nothing but 105 solar cells. I had to check several of them to make sure they are working and all of them was given me an acceptable result.

Once I had satisfied with cells I had to decide what kind of panel I had to make. After a quick research I found for 12V system I had to make a Panel with peak voltage around 18V and for a 24V system, it’s going up to 36V. The reason behind that is, when a load is connected to the panel, voltage is going to drop as our setup. The more current draw from the load, the more voltage drop is occurring depends on various factors. At least if I am going to charge 12V or 24V battery for storing energy, I need a larger voltage than battery voltage for make it work.

In my situation, I went for 24V system for oblivious reasons. First one is preventing energy lost while transferring. Second one is I have planned to use inverter which work with 24V. The first reason is valid for everyone and in every system, unless if you use bigger wires or something. If you transfer the same amount of energy through wire in different voltage, According to P=IV, lower the voltage, current become higher and because of resistance of wire most of energy become a heated and lost way through the battery. So prevent that happening, we can use wires with lowest resistant, which is thick wires. Or use higher voltage to lower the current which is more likely less energy wasted as heat. In that way we can use thin wires which is more cost effective.

Here are 2 panel systems I planned. For 12V, Its use 36 cells in parallel to create around 18V. And for 24V system, it should be used 72 cells in parallel to get around 36V.

First, I had to solder each cell for connecting them each other. I used, excess pins from LED’s for my previous project for connecting each cell. However, in this process I had to scratch the back side of welding tape a bit of a make surface more appealing to soldering.

However to finish this process you might need tons of patience because of cells are very fragile, you most likely broke every one of them in this process. In my case I broke 20 of cells before the work done. So this might not be very cheap after all. But after a few practice rounds it can handleeasily without breaking.
After prepare 4 of 18 cell panels I used a plain glass to mount them using glue and connect them together for complete the panel.

In testing I was able to get 40V max in direct sunlight average to 38V. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting that much result from it. However, when I connect to load which is 12V DC cooling fan with 0.15A rating on it, the voltage drops 17.6V max to 3.6 V min depend on light intensity of the sun. But at the end, I could able to run that cooling fan with a maximum speed (I guess) without paying any electricity bills.

These cells are working and provide sufficient power for small scale projects. But preparing these cells is very hard. However, I’m planning to go for complete system with batteries, charger, controller and so on, and then I’ll be able to tell whether this cell are cost effective than commercial products or not. Then I can accurately calculate the maximum power they can provide and hopefully I will do that soon.

How Did I Fix Samsung Thin 64gb USATA MLC SSD Hard Drive – Revive From Dead

Months ago I was experimenting with USATA SSD hard drive and use it with my PC for a while. After a few days, I went for a driver update on my system and then System was suddenly frozen. So I had to restart the PC and after that HDD wasn’t recognized by the PC. So I did the almost every trick in the book to get it back to work again, but it was a really dead and nothing could detect that hard drive again. However, I thought it’s a driver update that kills the HDD, but later I found out my power supply is not good as I thought and I had to replace it later.

However a few days ago I had time to look at that SSD Drive again and as expected, it doesn’t show any response when connect to the PC, even BIOS couldn’t detect it. So I assumed it had hardware issues and went to find some resources over the internet. I expected to find datasheet and check it’s for possible faulty units. But unfortunately I couldn’t find datasheet, so I went to check the HDD board without any clue.

First, I checked USATA power unit for getting an idea and I got a low resistance reading for both polarities around 200 ohms and it was odd because of it should be having a one way resistance if it use any of rectifier diodes in the circuit. And I was guessing 200 ohms is acceptable because its drive in only 3.3V so it need lower internal resistance to get more power inside to get to work done. So, according to V=IR it’s draws 15mA in ideal but I had no idea it’s good or bad without any reference.

So I went further on the path for something looks bad and for my luck, I notice something looks like a capacitor, in the middle of path of +3.3V, given me readings of resistor but when the polarity change it’s given me a different reading than first one. So I immediately remove it from the circuit and check it and it’s again given me to the same result.

Since I didn’t have any reference I couldn’t find what that was exactly. So I draw the paths so I can see clearly what it could be.

As it’s clear it could be diode or resistor or inductor or fuse to go DC current through it. Anyway, there is no point of adding a resistor in this place so I could remove resistor from guess list. And also, no point of using inductor here unless frequency filter is needed. Since it’s getting already smoothed DC voltage it could be eliminated from the list. Then there is a possible chance to be it a diode but because of the same reason it doesn’t make any sense. Also adding diode here would add a voltage drop, possibly between 0.7V – 0.3V and it doesn’t seem right. However, it does look like capacitor, but it’s not possible to be a capacitor, so my only guess was it could be some sort of fuse. And it was acting as 1st line defense and my faulty power supply blow it. That all makes perfect sense. The only thing bothering me was, if it was a fuse and it is blow up by higher current it shouldn’t be giving me resistance reading between its terminals.

Anyway, I was out of options and I could not find anything similar to that in other hard drives I had. So I decided to go for fuse and take a risk for already dead SSD Drive. Then I short the paths like if it was a fuse. Then check the internal resistance between GND and +3.3 terminal and make sure nothing shorted in the paths. And then connect SSD Drive to the power and check for unusual heating. At this point I could have tested how much current it draws from the power supply and compare it with before, but I forgot to do that. So I connect SSD HDD to the PC and turn it on. Boom! It worked!

After that, I install windows 10 on the drive, test benchmark and everything was looking good. Unfortunately, I didn’t have any reference about how it was performed before, so I could have compared it. In my test, it was heat up around 400C without any cooling. I’m guessing it’s ok to be heating up without blows up anything.

In summary, this is not universal fixing method for fixing everyone’s SSD hard drives. My point is, you could possibly fix your SSD hard drives by following something similar steps. But you have to be extremely lucky.

Building 8 inch ported sub woofer box – Full size enclosure

Having a good sound system is fun, but what else is fun is making one by own. However, I already have a basic sound system and I needed to improve its quality.

When talking about quality, subwoofer is obviously the main factor because it’s pretty hard to get it right. As humans, we are less sensitive to lower frequencies so it had to be very powerful and to do that, we need precise technology to achieve maximum efficiency. For the any kind of subwoofer, enclosures is must for lots of reasons and it will help to reduce cancelation, distortion and improve ton of other stuff when get it right.


There are many types of enclosures, but Sealed, Ported and Bandpass enclosures are the most popular ones. Thus, each one has its own advantages and disadvantages. In short, Sealed enclosures are provided more accuracy output while Ported providing more loud output and Bandpass will focus on the specific frequency range and amplify it’s better than others.


So in my project I’m going to make a ported enclosure with 8” subwoofer for the several reasons. First one is my amplifier is based on TPA3116D2 which is capable of a maximum output 100W for subwoofer alone, but my power supply only capability to provide 65 watts max, So I’m not getting very good power output so I’m not going for sealed enclosure because it need more power to get the same loudness comparing to other types. Also, I already have a sealed enclosure box, so I’m not going to make it. And about Band pass, it would require some precise calculations or otherwise it would be sounds bad. Since I’m going to use cheap subwoofers I found on the market, I’m not going to get it right calculations and it’s a lot easier to build ported one without messing with those.


There is lot of designs you can use to make something like this. You can always find some good designs and helps, out there on the internet with tons of resources. With days of research I got this plan of enclosure from this site It is very detailed and looks accurate to me according to my research.

You can download PDF file from this link from their website.

First, I have to make cuts plan for MDF board. For the board I’m using 8×4 standard size ¾ inch MDF board. From one board I could have made 3 boxes, so I planned to make 3 of them for more fun.

I convert retard units to metrics, so I’m not getting any confuse. However since I do not have the correct tools for getting the job done, I asked help from professionals for cut the board.

After cutting is done, I used simple plain nails and glue for the keep it together build. At this point you can use screw drives instead nails, but you have to drill the holes half way through. In both cases there is a huge chance to board get cracking, so avoid that possibility much as I can, I used thinnest nails I could find.

Halfway through the building, I started painting work. Because it’s very important to seal MDF board completely, or otherwise toxic that leaking from MDF board might get you a cancer or something. However the painting MDF board could be a hardest part of the whole process. For any kind of finish you have to use some kind of primer base. In my case I used a generic wood sealer to the first coat. Then sand it and apply paint on it. For glossy finish or better looking finish you may have to go for more layer of coatings and sanding. But in my case I don’t need to get nice look, so I end up with just a painting box with minimum effort. you can clearly see how bad is my paint job. 

After painting I attached speaker terminal, connect wires and tape loose wires in to the box or they will make rattling sounds when box works.

When finished the wiring I attached the speaker and seal the box. When you attach speakers to box use sealing material between speaker and enclosure to ensure an airtight seal between it.

After finishing, check for air leaks in box and seal them properly with glue or any other material. You can easily spot the leaks when playing some high base from amp, you can feel the air coming through.


For the whole process it cost me at around 9000 LKR to complete 3 subwoofer box with drivers. My expenses as follows.

For MDF board LKR 3750.00

Cutting LKR 800.00

Paints LKR 1000.00

3 Subwoofer Drivers LKR 3000.00

Nails and other costs LKR 500.00


Total cost is LKR 9050.00 which is around 56$. For one Subwoofer it cost less than 20$ and that’s so much cheap considering other options in the market.

With this subwoofers I will attempt to make complete surround sound system in a later post.

LG X-Note LGE-DMLGA51(B) Review – Dissemble

Type: Notebook
System Model
LG Electronics Inc. A560-XH55K 03

Board: Quanta QLGA
Bus Clock: 100 megahertz

2.60 gigahertz Intel Core i5-3230M
64 kilobyte primary memory cache
256 kilobyte secondary memory cache
3072 kilobyte tertiary memory cache
64-bit ready
Multi-core (2 total)
Hyper-threaded (4 total)

Intel(R) 7 Series Chipset Family SATA AHCI Controller

NVIDIA GeForce GT 640M [Display adapter]

Memory Modules
DDR 3 – 2 Slots

Bluetooth(R) 4.0
Wireless-N 2230 Wi-Fi Adapter
Qualcomm Atheros AR8161 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Controller

LG HD WebCam

1 x USB 3.0
2 x USB 2.0
1 x HDMI
1 x VGA
1 x Card Reader

How to flash Samsung J1 via Odin flash tool

Fix Samsung J1 (SM-J100H) firmware issue by flashing to stock firmware

I got Samsung J1 (SM-J100H) device that getting an error message when open setting. “Unfortunately, has stopped.” with this error it was quite hard to find some solution without going for flashing. And in this case, I had to go for flashing and here I will explain way I fix it by flashing stock firmware to Samsung J1 device.

If someone got the same error, I recommend trying restart and reset device first. For the reset, you have to go for recovery menu. Recovery combination for Samsung J1 is power button + Volume Up button + Home button. Try wipe data/cache partitions. If those doesn’t fix the problem, go for flashing.

Warning!! –  Incorrect or interrupted flashing will be the result of bricked device. Do it with your own risk.

For the flashing device you need,

  1. Device with good percentage of battery power. (at least higher than 30%)
  2. Windows installed computer.
  3. Downloaded Odin.
  4. Downloaded Stock firmware.
  5. USB drivers or Install Samsung Smart Switch, It will install all drivers for you.

Step 01

Install USB drivers to the computer.

Step 02

Extract the firmware file if you downloaded zip file. Most likely it will be compressed file and after extract You should have .md5 file

Step 03

Extract downloaded Odin and open Odin application with Administrator privileges – right click on odin_.v_.exe and select run as administrator.

Step 04

On Odin screen select “AP” tab. locate and select firmware file and click OK. After click OK, it will take few minutes to process. Wait till it done. It’s normally to show not respond message while process. Let it to be finish. Don’t mess with it.

Step 05

After you get the log says Finished successfully and leave CS, Connect the device with download mode on via USB cable. For that, Turn off device and then power on with ,power button + Volume Down button + Home button press with all together. It will show the Warning message and continue with Volume Up button.



If device successfully connected, Odin will show the device information with COM port number that connected in the ID:COM tab. And log will show device added.


Step 06

If you come so far, make sure USB connection is stable enough and click “Start”. Don’t mess with odin settings. leave everything in to default settings. After start you will see the processing logs in right side on screen and the process would take around 10 minutes to complete.

If flashing complete successfully it will show the “PASS” message and your device will reboot. You can disconnect the cable now.

If everything workout well, problem should be fixed by now.


Fix Samsung Galaxy G 955XU – Motherboard replacement

Samsung Galaxy G 955XU is live demo unit of Samsung Galaxy S8+ with Qualcomm MSM8998 Snapdragon 835 which is same configuration as Samsung Galaxy G 955U or Samsung Galaxy G 955U1. only deferent of 955XU and 955U is there are no mobile network functions included on 955XU device in hardware level. And also it contains some demo apps that very annoying in regular use and nearly impossible to remove completely.

In another thread here,I tried to recover SM -G 955XU device but couldn’t get anywhere. So in order to make it work again I did replace it’s main board from G 955U device and get it’s back to the work successfully.

For the fix Samsung Galaxy G 955XU you need completely working Samsung Galaxy G 955U motherboard. There are several models available other than G 955U, like G 955F . But I’m not sure they are compatible to each other so I have tested only on G 955U and if fixed perfectly on G 955XU.

Before begin you need phillips #00 screwdriver, hot gun and opening pick. for the hot gun you can also use the hair dryer. I’m not explaining dissemble process. you can watch it via ifixit here–>

Note :

  • You can use all the parts from 955XU device other than main board. even the fingerprint sensor will work with new main board.
  • After dissemble device, it will lost it’s waterproof capability. keep in that mind.
  • If you are in deferent region or carrier , you may be won’t receive updates directly to the mobile. but still you can update the device via Smart switch application.


For the replacement I found screen smashed device from eBay and it’s cheapest way to find one but you have to make sure inside of mobile doesn’t get damaged or otherwise you have an another trouble to deal with. Also make sure purchased item does not stolen from anywhere, if possible make sure you directly bought from the owner. however check IMEI number for possible blacklists.


Here I got screen smashed Samsung Galaxy S8+ G 955U device and Samsung Galaxy S8+ LDU G 955XU device with firmware locked.

If all the things are set, dissemble the devises and remove mother boards.


You can see both motherboards are almost identical to each other. Only true deference between them is Galaxy G 955XU LDU device doesn’t have mobile network IC’s or other equipments support it in hardware level. You can see that deferent between them if you removed those protective plates from motherboards, but I’m not going to do that here.

I just simply replaced board, reconnect all cables and assembled phone then boom. That’s it.

You can use double tapes or glue, whatever your prefer method to seal phone. But careful with water proof. may be it won’t be good as it was before.

Antimalware service executable – High resource usage

I have seen lot of windows 10 PC’s that works fine and faster than some old Win 7, 8 Os’s in same hardware configurations. But still lot of people’s are prefer to use 7 or 8 because of lack of controllability in windows 10. when I say controllability I have seen 2 major problems with windows 10. first one is unstoppable updates. it’s good in some ways but sometimes it’s unbelievably annoying. even with some tricks it’s still will update and you can’t do nothing about it with certain situations. Second one is windows defender’s antimalware service executable process that eat half of your computer resources and led to slow your computer.

Here I’m explain simple trick that help to avoid antimalware service executable process hog your resources. In the Internet you could find many of solutions but those are involve with registry editing and some stuff. and even sometimes those are not works. at least none of them work for me. luckily installing virus guard could solve the problem. Solution is simple as that is.

Some peoples don’t like virus guard but, In windows 10 you must have virus guard or you have to work with windows defender. there are many anti-virus programs that free and paid, however I recommend lightweight free anti virus guard will do the job. anything will be better than resource hogging antimalware service executable process.



Samsung Galaxy G 955XU Firmware – Discussion – Development

UPDATE – In this thread I was failed to find firmware solution for 955XU device but instead I was able to replace motherboard from G-955-U successfully. you can read that post from here.–>  

This thread allocated to discussion or reports about G 955XU particular samsung galaxy s8+ LDU module. Since samsung doesn’t sell this units officially lot of peoples calming those devices are stolen. but I believe there are ways to legally own this device. however if someone got 955XU and tried to play with OS and now in trouble and looking for stock firmware, I cannot say I have a solution but I must say I’m in the same boat as you are.

Like I said I have flashed 955XU device with this firmware for root the device. And end up with security error and now I’m trying to revers it back to at least it’s original condition. unfortunately for 955XU model there are no free stock firmware in any known places. and there are no developments or supports available. I have look everywhere for weeks to find some help but no luck. In my research I have seen people like me ask 955XU firmware and such questions in threads like Xda but no one gets answers and lot of are banned or threads closed due to their policies.

So in this I want make place to share knowledge about 955XU , at least share my knowledge with among others.




Places I found that 955XU Stock firmware’s available ->

Easy-firmwear –

GSM-Files –

Combine Files –


There are more places on the web, however I have purchased firmwear on but didn’t work. that firmware only have BL and CSC, I’ll post result below with different flash tries. 


According to some threads in the Internet  LDU units of old models (S7,6) firmware and it’s normal firmware’s only different is modem.bin file and some other bin files. in S8+ firmwares we can see modem.bin file in CSC file. And other bin files locations are unknown. 

G955X RDU have it’s arrival G955F and some claimed these devices firmwares are compatible to each other. But there are no source about 955XU arrival. Also 955X and 955F are Exynos variant, So if there are 955XU arrival exist it has to be one of flowing module.

955UNot Worked

955U1 – Not Worked

955A – Waiting for test

955P – Waiting for test

955T- Waiting for test

955V – Waiting for test

955R4 – Waiting for test

955W – Waiting for test

9550 – snapdragon variant but it’s storage 128GB (this couldn’t be one – memory mapping has to be different I suppose )


Since 955XU is snapdragon variant BOOT LOCKER is still cannot be unlocked. which means no custom roms.

there is now TWRP is available for Galaxy S8 and S8+ (Snapdragon) But didn’t work for me.


955XU Firmware

Odin – BL + CSC

dm-verity error 0x02


955U Firmware

Odin – BL + AP

dm-verity error 0x02


955U Firmware + 955XU Firmware

Odin – BL (955U) + AP (955U) +CSC (955XU)

odin error – model mismatch


SMPWND Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL + AP + CSC + CP

Security error – this phone has been flashed with unauthorized software..


SMPWND Firmware + 955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL + AP + CP + CSC (955XU)

Security error – this phone has been flashed with unauthorized software..


955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL +CSC in AP tab

Stuck on logo


955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – CSC

Repartition – yes

Stuck on logo


955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL + CSC

Repartition – yes , Auto reboot – no

Stuck on logo


SMPWND Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL

Security error – this phone has been flashed with unauthorized software..


SMPWND Firmware + 955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL(955XU) + AP (SMPWND) +CP (SMPWND)

Stuck on logo


SMPWND Firmware + 955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL(955XU) + AP (SMPWND) +CP (SMPWND) + CSC (SMPWND)

Stuck on logo


Combination File – COMBINATION_FA70_G955USQU1AQG3

Odin – AP

Security error – this phone has been flashed with unauthorized software..


955XU Firmware

Odin – BL

odin error – Model mismatch failed


955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL

Stuck on logo


955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin -CSC

Repartition – yes , Phone EFS clear – yes

Stuck on logo



Combination File – COMBINATION_FA70_G955USQU1AQG3

Comsy Odin – AP

Security error – this phone has been flashed with unauthorized software..


955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL + CSC

Repartition – yes , Phone EFS clear – yes , Boot loader update – yes

Stuck on logo


Combination File edited – COMBINATION_FA70_G955USQU1AQG3 + 955XU CSC files repack

Comsy Odin – AP

Security error – this phone has been flashed with unauthorized software..


955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – CSC on AP tab

Security error – this phone has been flashed with unauthorized software..


955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL

Stuck on logo


Combination File – COMBINATIONF_A70_G955USQU1AQD8

Comsy Odin – AP

Security error – this phone has been flashed with unauthorized software..


955U Firmware + 955XU Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL (955XU) +CSC (955XU) + USERDATA (955U) in AP tab

Repartition – yes , Phone EFS clear – yes

Stuck on logo


955XU Firmware modified

Comsy Odin – BL (955XU) +CSC (955XU + 955U)

Stuck on logo


955U Firmware

Comsy Odin – BL + AP

Security error – this phone has been flashed with unauthorized software..


955XU Firmware modified

Comsy Odin – BL + CSC (955U + 955XU + SMPWND) repack

dm-verity error 0x02



uSATA to SATA converter – Use uSATA Hard drive with SATA port

Serial ATA is one of most widely used bus interface for storage devices for years. Within its technology SATA 3.2 can achieve 16Gbit/s data transfer rate. However in this post I concern about use uSATA drive with normal SATA 2 or SATA 3 port.

uSATA or also known as a micro SATA usually can be seen in Laptop hard drives. In SATA interface there are 2 connectors that use for transfer DATA and POWER separately. In general term there is no physical difference between DATA connector with between SATA and Micro SATA (uSATA). It can be connect to regular SATA cable and supported by SATA 2 or 3 ports in motherboard. But the power connector cannot be connect to the standard one.

In this post I’m going to use my uSATA SSD hard drive with ordinary PC. First we must understand power segments with standard connector and uSATA power connector.

  <Source – Wikipedia>


So let’s begin

Step 1 – Identify the pins and voltages for uSATA connector.

According to chart +3.3 V for pin 1,2 , +5 V for pin 5,6 , Ground or 0V for pin 3,4 and 7,8,9 are unknown.

However in this case I have laptop that with uSATA port. So I have measure the voltages while working and find out for this specific SSD HDD only use +3.3 V for it’s power requirement.

Step 2 – Connect to the power as required.

For the power we can use standard SATA power connector supply wires. in power supply Orange wires carries +3.3 V, Red wires +5 V , Yellow wires +12 V and Black wires Ground. however in some causes there are no 3.3 V in some SATA power connectors. when that happens we have to bypass wire to ATX power supply connector and get power from there.

 In first cable doesn’t include orange wire. which means no 3.3V supply

In my case I only need 3.3V and ground , and I’m going to get that power from bypass ATX connector.

Then I connect + 3.3 V and Ground cables to uSATA HDD by solder wires to socket.

Step 3 – Connect Data cable and do the final check ups for short circuits then good to go for test.

I have successfully connected and fully tested my uSATA Samsung SSD Hard drive (64Gb) to my PC without any error. I used both SATA 3 and SATA 2 ports for test and both works. In summery I only needed 3.3 V because of my device requirement specify for that. if anyone willing to following this method I’m warning, another device may have deferent requirement of power. try with your own risk.


After using this HDD for few Days, It stopped working suddenly. However I could recover it successfully and here is the post about it.